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Weekender's Guide to Margaret River
While the name is synonymous with premium Australian Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon, there's much more to Margaret River (Wooditjup) than its world-class wineries. Here are Selector's tips on what to taste, how to play, and where to stay this celebrated Western Australian wine region.
Perth might win the award for the most isolated city in the world, but drive three and a half hours south (or fly direct from Melbourne or Sydney), and you'll be in one of the world's most isolated wine regions. It's this remoteness, lining the fringes of pristine wildness on the coat of the Indian Ocean, that is partly responsible for the close knit community of Margaret River and the speed with which the region has gone from fledging wine region to superstar status in just over fifty years since the first commercial vineyard was planted.
While the township of Margaret River has a population of about 18,000, the GI of the Margaret River wine region stretches just over 100 kilometres north to south and includes the localities and towns of Vasse, Dunsborough, Yallingup, Witchcliffe and Augusta. The region is packed with to-dos, to-dines, and to-drinks; so much so that even most locals would be hard pressed to have ticked all the boxes.
This part of the South West of Western Australia is Wadandi country, and the Wadandi people have been custodians of the land for over 60,000 years. From the 1800s European settlements began forming around the initial industry of forestry, followed by dairy agriculture. Only in the mid 1900s did individuals start moving to the area for the off the beaten track lifestyle and the fantastic surf conditions, along with the beginnings of a fledgling wine industry. So, why try growing vines here, of all places? We have the late Dr John Gladstones to thank, as his hugely influential 1966 research paper unveiled the possibility of the region's suitability for growing wine grapes.
Margaret River is a hiker s paradise with the help of Cape to Cape Explorer Tours.
It is a combination of the free draining loamy soils, the Mediterranean type climate, tempered by the cooling sea breezes, reliable winter rainfall, and the consistency of conditions that have assisted in developing the impressive quality of Margaret River wines. The initial plantings were planted by passionate viticultural pioneers, whose grape growing and winemaking was a side hustle to their already established careers, many in medicine.
Cardiologist Tom Cullity planted the first commercial vines in 1967 at Vasse Felix, and several other notable wineries quickly followed, including Moss Wood in 1969, Cape Mentelle in 1970, Cullen in 1971, Sandalford in 1972, and Leeuwin Estate, Woodlands and Wrights (now Juniper Estate) in 1973.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, STAY AND PLAY IN THE ICONIC MARGARET RIVER REGION.
Relax in style at Windows Estate.
The first question most people ask when visiting Margaret River is, "Which winery should I visit?". There's no easy answer, as it depends on how much time you have and, of course, personal wine preferences. With over 180 wineries and over 100 cellar doors, there is a tremendous amount of diversity on offer. Unofficial sub-regions and differing micro-climates allow various wine styles and varieties to be grown.
Cellar door experiences range from those with restaurants through to those by appointment only, and wine produced ranges in style from youthful and fun, drink-now drops, through to the gravitas of some of the most iconic wines in Australia. There is also the question of driving distances it can take a solid hour to drive from the northern vineyards and venues in the northern Yallingup vicinity to the cooler southern area of Karridale and Augusta, where the Indian and Southern Oceans collide.
A top tip for traversing through any wine region is to start the day at the furthest cellar door, so by the time home time arrives, there isn't too far to go. Be sure to book a private driver or designate one before setting out. It would be remiss to visit Margaret River and not visit one of the much-plauded wineries mentioned above. Vasse Felix, Leeuwin Estate, Cullen, and Voyager all have superb fine-dining restaurants and sophisticated tasting experiences.There is no shortage of cheese and charcuterie platters on offer at cellar doors sans restaurants, such as Howard Park,Woodlands, Domaine Naturaliste, Windows Estate, Larry Cherubino, Marq Wines, and Mr Barval, to name a few. Other favourite wineries include Skigh Wine, Altair Estate, Lenton Brae and Churchview.
If there is no food offering at a cellar door you are particularly keen on, many invite tasters to BYO picnic; Juniper Estate, Passel Estate and Stella Bella are just a few to try out.
Other well-respected wineries with restaurants include Xanadu, Amelia Park and Wills Domain. While Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon wear the crown, there are plenty more varieties that play a key role in the royal court of Margaret River wine. The classic Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend is a hallmark of the region, and Rosé and Shiraz/Syrah are also taken seriously. You'll find some of Australia's top Chenin Blanc here, and there are increasing numbers of alternative grape varieties being explored.
To venture into the realm of varieties such as Savagnin, Nebbiolo, and Fiano, head south and pop into Amato Vino, South by Southwest, or Glenarty Road. Glenarty Road is also home to a highly awarded and true farm-to-fork restaurant. Northward of the Margaret River townsite, LS Merchants, Happs, and Skigh Wine have plenty of fun and lesser-known varieties; many of these wineries also specialise in minimal intervention wines.
BEST SPOTS TO EAT IN MARGARET RIVER
Koomal Dreaming with the Ngilgi Cave Ancient Lands Experience.
A great wine has complexity, length, character and is a harmonious sum of its parts. In other words, it's balanced. As enjoyable as indulgence tastes in the moment, real pleasure lies in the balance of energy in and out. Be sure to strap on your sneakers, hiking boots or swimmers and burn off some of those tasty morsels (so you can top up the energy bank with more). Whether you are a thrillseeker or a safe player, there's a multitude of ways to work up a sweat and explore the beauty of the region.
The Cape to Cape track runs for 123 kilometres along the Leeuwin-Naturaliste Ridge. While the total hike (or ultra-marathon) takes about six days to complete, there are countless short walks and half-day stretches that take in spectacular scenery from the Cape Naturaliste Lighthouse to the Cape Leeuwin Lighthouse. Time your trip for early to mid-spring, and you'll encounter carpets of wildflowers and thousands of humpback whales off-shore during their annual migration.
Take in the towering karri trees of Boranup Forest, the windswept Wilyabrup cliffs, white sandy beaches, calm paddling waters and invigorating surf breaks along the coast. Prefer a helping hand? Book a day tour with expert guide and seasoned local, Sean Blocksidge, of Margaret River Discovery Tours. Alternatively, multi-day options are offered by Cape to Cape Explorer Tours and Walk Into Luxury, or let the crew at Cape2Camp do the heavy lifting of pitching tents and prepping meals so you can just put one foot in front of the other.
If there's an onshore gale blowing, you'll know it by the packed car park on Carters Road, as if it's not surfing, it's mountain biking. Margaret River is home to a network of epic mountain bike trails suitable for beginners and pros. Hire a bike from the Hairy Marron, or if your skills are a little rusty, jump on a tour with Brookesy and Di at Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours. E-bikes are also an option!
If the weather is too wet for the great outdoors, get those steps underground at one of the crystalline caves along Caves Road. Book a tour with Wadandi cultural custodian Josh Whiteland of Koomal Dreaming, and learn about the deep respect and relationship that his people have with the land.
GREAT PLACES TO STAY IN MARGARET RIVER
Follow the whale songs along the coast in Dunsborough.
Walk trails near the Wilyabrup Cliffs.
There's a smorgasbord of accommodation options across the region, so it depends on how you like to travel and who you'll be travelling with. Taxis are few and far between, which means if you are planning a car-free trip, be sure to stay within walking distance of town. Got a group of friends or family? Then, live out your holiday home dreams with one of the luxe properties on offer by Private Properties.
Stargaze and enjoy the slower pace of life in the beautiful and serene surroundings of Tanah Marah, or go for lakeside glamping gold at Olio Bello. If romance is in the air, there are plenty of accommodation options to rug up by the fireplace or relax in a spa for two. Bina Maya Yallingup Estate, Tree Chalets, Hidden Valley Forest Retreat, 8 Paddocks, Little House Republic and Windows Petit Eco Cabin are all perfect for lovebirds.
INTERESTING THINGS TO DO IN MARGARET RIVER
Margaret River Mountain Bike Tours.
There's a reason that so many visitors become locals. Margaret River has it all, including a vibrant calendar chock-full of events year-round. Cabin Fever keeps things toasty in winter, Pair'd Margaret River is a new food and wine festival launching this spring, Margaret River Open Studios sees 144 artists open the doors to their studios, and the Margaret River Readers and Writers Festival ticks the boxes for literary buffs.
There's no shortage of sporting competitions either, including the Cape to Cape mountain bike race, the Margaret River Pro and the Margaret River Ultra Marathon.
If you like to keep your hands busy, take a skill home with you from one of the many creative classes in the region. Margaret River Printmaking, Happs Pottery, Feral Cloud Jewellery and Vasse Virgin all offer opportunities to get creative and perhaps depart with a new hobby alongside the holiday memories.
It's easy to while away an afternoon wandering the town's main street; full of artisan clothing boutiques, cute homewares stores, gift shops and providores to stock the pantry up with. Stop in for a casual lunch at Egberts café, Drift café or the Margaret River bakery, or if it's winetime, Settlers Tavern has one of the most extensive wine lists in the state.
Small bar vibes can be found at Pearl's, Rhum Burgundy and Morries. Kick on with cocktails at Yonder Bar, a fancy dinner date at the recently opened modern Australian restaurant De'sendent, or a theatrical Japanese degustation at Miki's Open Kitchen. Casual Italian vibes are all the rage at Pizzica, Il Spotto Italiano (BYO is a bonus), and Sons of Naples.
You have been warned. Once you visit Margaret River, you might never want to leave. You won't be the first: just ask a local.
SPECIAL OFFERS AND MUST-VISIT WINERIES - MARGARET RIVER TASTE PLAY STAY
It's astounding to reflect on the success of Margaret River, a mere baby compared to some of Australia's premier wine regions. Yet this western mecca has rightfully taken its place as a prestigious centre of winemaking and wine tourism in its own right - and for good reason, abounding as it does in stunning coastlines, majestic national parks, and a food and wine scene to die for.
From its soils spring forth some of the country's finest Cabernets, Shiraz and Chardonnays, not to mention the iconic white Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blends that helped propel it to fame. Stretching across 100 kilometres of coast from Cape Leeuwin to Cape Naturaliste, it's a genuine postcard paradise where the vines meet the sea, and home to dozens of first-rate cellar doors ready to welcome you to a premium wine tasting experience with all the trimmings.
As ever, Members can receive access to exclusive Members Extras discounts for your visit to the gem of the west, Margaret River.
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SKIGH WINE
Vineyard in Yallingup Hills.
Driven by the desire to make wines capturing a distinctly West Australian identity they can proudly drink and share, Skigh Wine is a love letter to minimalist magic. Skigh first started making wine in 2016, sourcing fruit from some amazing sites in Margaret River. Founder Skigh McManus and the winery team still work closely with those same growers, while also extending its fruit sourcing to the Geographe wine region, as well as farming an 8-hectare lease vineyard in Yallingup Hills.
McManus got started in the wine industry in Denmark, WA when he had a work placement immediately after school graduation. Fast forward 30 harvests throughout New Zealand, Canada, America, Spain, France and Western Australia (whilst operating a small wine consultancy business), and the time was ripe to explore his own expressions of what WA wines can be crafted into.
With all the wines Skigh makes, the aim is for balance and drinkability. Gentle, spontaneous ferments using indigenously occurring yeasts, minimal additions where pragmatic, natural acidity and low sulphur at bottling all combine to create well balanced wines that are approachable and vibrant while maintaining a sense of place. All Skigh wines are vegan friendly, and are ultimately born from a desire to create wines that McManus and team want to drink, and proudly share.
The Skigh Cellar Door is a relaxed, converted barn with a sprawling garden and plenty of good wine open for tasting. Walk-ins are always welcome, but to ensure there's a spot for you, bookings via email or phone are strongly recommended.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Definitely check out Miki's Open Kitchen. For a truly decadent experience book the same table for both seatings and take a sneaky cocktail break in between.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
The Skigh Elsie Cabernet with wagyu, or the Long Lunch Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre which pairs really well with a tasting board or charcuterie plate: its savoury spice and cherry fruit flavours go sensationally with smoked meats and cheeses like aged cheddar and red Leicester.
Visit Skigh Wine
ALTAIR ESTATE
Altair Estate Cellar Door.
Renowned for its excellent soil and production of high quality wines, Altair Estate is a sustainably certified boutique winery situated in Wilyabrup in the Margaret River region. With a focus on elevating the region to new levels, Altair Estate has adopted sustainable winemaking practices, leading to the modernisation and revitalisation of the estate, whilst still preserving its rustic charm and rich heritage.
Its portfolio showcases modern expressions of classic Margaret River and Italian styles that range from full-bodied, complex wines, to vibrant wines exuding vitality and energy. Open Wednesday to Sunday, the Cellar Door boasts sweeping scenic views, and provides a fun, personal, and educational experience.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Visit one of the many caves along Caves Road, and be sure to stop by The Margaret River Chocolate Company afterward (also pairs wonderfully with an Altair Malbec).
WINE + FOOD MATCH
For a sensational, culinary experience, enjoy our full-bodied Malbec with a juicy grilled steak.
Visit Altair Estate
DOMAINE NATURALISTE
Stunning views of cellar door.
A wine tasting at Domaine Naturaliste.
Domaine Naturaliste is a relative newcomer to Margaret River, having launched in only 2012. It is the brand of highly respected winemaker Bruce Dukes, who has spent the past 30-plus years making wine for others both locally and internationally. Beginning with a deep understanding of soils and sustainable farming practices,
Dukes approaches winemaking with the passion of an agronomist, believing that a holistic approach reaps the greatest rewards, both for the wine and the environment. Visitors to the Wilyabrup Cellar Door will find a friendly, relaxed space to taste some outstanding classic Margaret River varietals, with the signature offering being a seated, individually guided premium wine flight overlooking the vineyard. Bar tastings and cheese and charcuterie boards are also available with bookings recommended. Open daily, 10am-5pm.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Exploring Canal Rocks, Meelup Beach, and Lake Cave.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
A Floris Chardonnay 2023 matched with chicken with sage butter, veal or olives.
Visit Domaine Naturaliste
LENTON BRAE
Wine and Charcuterie at Lenton Brae.
Enjoy the warmth of cellar door.
Established in 1982, Lenton Brae is a family-owned winery nestled in the hills of Wilyabrup, just north of Margaret River. As one of the region's founding wineries, they continue to be a cornerstone of the region, and their story is a blend of heritage, innovation and a deep connection to the land that shapes their premium, award-winning wines.
The architecturally designed Cellar Door has recently been renovated, and showcases sweeping views across the vines and dam. Visitors can enjoy a range of unique tasting experiences, design their own cheese and charcuterie platters with locally sourced produce from the on-site deli, or head outside to play lawn games and let the kids roam. Throughout the year, Lenton Brae hosts special events, live music, pottery workshops, and more.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Yallingup Beach for unforgettable views of our gorgeous coastline, or view by air with Scenic Helicopters.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
Semillon Sauvignon Blanc with fresh, white-fleshed fish and beurre blanc sauce.
Visit Lenton Brae
CHURCHVIEW
Explore the period cottage tasting room.
In 1999, father and son, Spike and Raymond Fokkema, established Churchview, selecting the property for its ideal and fertile gravelly loam soils, ample clean water and north-facing slopes. Churchview pride themselves on cultivating, crafting and cherishing the land, the grapes, and the wines, and as stewards of the land have transformed the conventionally operated farm to a fully organically operated vineyard.
Delve into some history in the period cottage tasting room, where you will be greeted by friendly and knowledgeable team members who'll take you through an informative tasting that will stimulate and invigorate your senses, with a portfolio of wines both exciting and extensive - and sure to satisfy even the most discerning wine enthusiast.
Churchview Cellar Door is open 7 days, 10am-5pm.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Explore the region's drive trails at driveyourstory.com
WINE + FOOD MATCH
Try the Churchview Limited Release 2022 Chenin Blanc with roast pork and spiced apples.
Visit Churchview