State Of Play: Assessing The Best In Canberra Shiraz

As the Australian wine industry matures, our desire for sweet and full flavours shifts to less obvious, savoury reds with elegance and finesse. This is cool climate territory, so to get a deeper look, Selector heads to our nation's capital to explore the rise of Canberra Shiraz. 

In the scheme of things, particularly the timeline of wine, 50 years is mere blink of an eye. Vineyard sites and varieties take time to find their natural equilibrium; regional styles need time to develop; and businesses, always the custodians of both, usually need a few decades to weather and fortify themselves against the ever-shifting sandscape of time.

During this window, Australia's Shiraz identity - formed mostly in the 80s and 90s as rich, high-octane and oak-seasoned blockbusters - has shifted into a broader picture where freshness, balance, restraint and regionality soak up most of that frame.

As this picture was evolving, Canberra was quietly jostling its way into position as one of Australia's most interesting performers, joining Tasmania, Great Southern, Great Western/Grampians, the Yarra Valley, Orange, Coonawarra and Adelaide Hills at the cool climate dinner table.

THE HISTORY AND HALLMARKS OF CANBERRA SHIRAZ

Like most of the world, phylloxera wiped out the original vines that were planted there in 1840. Then, in the early 1970s, scientists conducted a survey of the region and modest plantings across the three sub-regions of Yass, Murrumbateman, and Bungendore.

CSIRO scientist Dr John Kirk planted at Clonakilla in 1971, Dr Edgar Riek planted at the same time on the other side of the range on the western shore of Lake George, and Ken Helm established Helm Wines in 1973. In 1974, Edgar, John and Ken formed the Canberra District Vignerons Association, and Canberra as a wine region was off to the races.

Fast forward 50 years and there are now over 140 Canberra District vineyards producing spicy, medium-bodied reds and a delicious suite of fine- boned, elegant whites. The star of this show however is arguably Shiraz, and whilst its Rieslings, Pinots and Chardonnays are beautiful, its Shiraz and small cohort of co-fermented Shiraz Viogniers are some of the best in the land.

The hallmarks that distinguish cool climate Shiraz above its warmer counterparts are aromatics, spice, texture, weight and a tendency for savoury to dominate over sweet. One of the primary determiners of all these components comes from the region's elevation, which ranges from 300 to 800 metres, and coupled with its cool climate, contributes to a growing season that is both long and slow. Short daily bursts of warm ripening, followed by cool (sometimes frigid) nights allows for the slow development of sugars, acids, and phenolic compounds that result in wines with remarkable depth, finesse, aroma and structure.

Canberra Shiraz is regularly called Syrah, as they definitely have the savoury edge, and the fine, silky tannins that are the hallmark of the great Shiraz that comes from the steep banks of Rhône from Cornas, through Hermitage and all the way up to Côte-Rôtie. Flavours are earthier, red fruits tending to black, woven together with red cherries, cranberries and raspberries and generally - sometimes generously - framed with blackberries, black cherries and currants.

Whether it be dialled up, or sitting quietly in the background, you should always expect spice and/or pepper laced through the palate. Some examples taste like the black pepper grinder just left the table, while others have a sprinkling of fine, powdered white pepper that lingers delicately at the finish.

WHAT ARE THE AROMAS OF CANBERRA SHIRAZ?

Then there's the thing that captivates most about Canberran Shiraz: the aromas. In the best examples they're truly beguiling, and even in the "okay" examples are still perfumed, floral and pretty. Tim Kirk, Chief Winemaker of Clonakilla, having made Canberra Shiraz for over 30 years, is credited with putting the district on the international map with his famed Shiraz Viognier.

As such, he has a deep relationship with the variety in Canberra. "I would say Canberra Shiraz is Shiraz for Pinot lovers," he explains when discussing aromatics. "I think it's all about those red fruits, and when you get hints and shadows of darker, earthy characters, they become - to me anyway - some of the most heady and aromatic wines that we make in Australia." For Kirk, Canberra Shiraz is a celebration of redness, from red roses to raspberries and red cherries.

"When you add spice and pepper that just makes them so incredibly heady," he says. "It's almost like you can get lost the more you smell, it has a more Pinot-like quality." Especially so, says Kirk, when you start employing some of the more Burgundian wine-making approaches, as he's been doing for over 30 years, like the inclusion of a proportion of whole bunches, extended macerations pre- and post-fermentation. "Those things which are common in Burgundy, when we apply them to Shiraz, you definitely get this Pinot-esque element in Canberra Shiraz," he says, particularly when carefully grown and carefully made.

 

SELECTOR TASTING: CANBERRA SHIRAZ

To get a good look Canberra's Shiraz wares, Selector teamed up with the Canberra District Wine Industry Association (CDWIA) and the team at Nick O'Leary to do what wine folk do best, and have a tasting. So myself, Fergus McGhie, CDWIA President and Sales and Marketing head at Mount Majura, Tim Kirk of Clonakilla, Nick O'Leary, Winemaker and CEO Nick O'Leary Wines, Matt White, Product Head at Wine Selectors, and Alex Fenton, Sommelier at Nick O'Leary Restaurant, tasted our way through a range of straight Shiraz and Shiraz blends ranging back to the 2015 vintage.

The rise of Canberra District Shiraz is not just about the individual achievements of wineries like Clonakilla coming of age and having years - nay, decades - of work start to pay off. It also reflects a broader trend towards appreciating the diversity of Australian Shiraz.

Wine enthusiasts are increasingly recognising that cool climate regions can produce Shiraz wines that are just as compelling, if not more so, than those from traditional hot climates. There is an adage that says you can see the real quality in wine, wine producers and regions when things are tough, and Canberra has had two successive tough years, including the disastrous 2020 vintage where no wine was made due to bushfires. Successive La Niña patterns across 2021 and 2022 increased the warmth that pushes the grapes through to ripeness late, putting both harvests back and leaving winemakers to struggle with high acidity and low sugar levels.

Indeed, 2022 was the worst of the two, and was also plagued by hailstorms and disease - with some losing everything. Despite these challenges there were great, high scoring, high quality wines made across both years, and the tasting outcomes generally - in terms of quality and consistency - mirrored that of any wine region across the country with more decades under its belt.

Another point to make is that quality Canberra Shiraz, due to its elevation and climate, can come into its own after two to three years in the bottle, as the concentrated layers of fruit slowly unfurl their true beauty. The small amount of 2023 wines that were tasted indicated a broad concentration of flavour that can only get better with a little settling time. What sets Canberra District Shiraz apart is its ability to marry the intensity of fruit with a subtlety and sophistication that is often more akin to Old World wines. The wines are typically less about power and more about precision, with an emphasis on balance and length.

This makes them incredibly versatile, pairing well with a wide range of foods and appealing to a broad audience of wine lovers. In conclusion, the Shiraz wines of the Canberra District are a testament to the region's unique terroir and the skill of its winemakers. They offer a different perspective on Australian Shiraz, one that emphasises elegance, complexity, and a true sense of place. As more wine lovers discover these exceptional wines, the Canberra District is surely poised to become one of our most treasured regions.

 

TASTE THE STATE OF PLAY CANBERRA WINES FOR YOURSELF WITH THE EXCLUSIVE SELECTOR OFFERS BELOW

Canberra Shiraz Triple Pack

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THE BEST CANBERRA SHIRAZ AT THE TASTING

CULLARIN BLOCK 71 SYRAH 2019

RRP $50

Deep red in the glass. Lovely ripe fruit aromas with hints of baked cherry. Palate is medium-bodied with bright red fruits and layers of marzipan and all-spice. With fine tannins and a clean finish, this is one classy wine.

MCKELLAR RIDGE REGIONAL BLEND 2022

RRP $45

Bright garnet. Lifted florals with bright blue and black fruit aromas open onto a meaty palate that shows great fruit and savoury balance. Fine acidity and grippy, well- integrated tannins, finishing with subtle vanillin oak. Delectable.

MCKELLAR RIDGE HILLTOPS SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $38

Garnet in colour with deep aromas of cooked and fresh plum, blackberry and pepper. A full-bodied palate with a ripe black fruit core of plum and blackberry, complemented by hints of liquorice and savoury spice. Good acidity and grippy tannins, with a fine finish. 

FOUR WINDS VINEYARD HARD GRAFT SHIRAZ 2019

RRP $78

Mid garnet in appearance. Nose opens with a decadent blend of coffee, cocoa and blackcurrant with lively licks raspberries and red cherries. "When you add spice and pepper that just makes them so incredibly heady," he says. "It's almost like you can get lost the more you smell, it has a more Pinot-like quality." 

Especially so, says Kirk, when you start employing some of the more Burgundian wine-making approaches, as he's been doing for over 30 years, like the inclusion of a proportion of whole bunches, extended macerations pre- and post-fermentation. "Those things which are common in Burgundy, when we apply them to Shiraz, you definitely get this Pinot-esque element in Canberra Shiraz," he says, particularly when carefully grown and carefully made.

LAKE GEORGE SHIRAZ 2023

RRP $42

Youthful and bright violet in colour. Nose is elegant with a hint of stem and white pepper. Fresh and energetic on the palate, with dry, racy acidity and fine, light tannins. Expressive and beguiling, this is an excellent wine.

POACHERS SYRAH 2019

RRP $35

Mid red in appearance, with a fragrant bouquet of summer herbs, leather and spice. Palate is medium-bodied with dark red fruits and balanced French oak, a lovely savoury edge of crushed spice, and soft, fine tannins. A satisfyingly old school Canberra Shiraz.

NICK O'LEARY SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $32

Pours bright, colourful red, displaying elegant and fragrant aromas of lifted white pepper. A silky, textural palate of dark berry and balanced oak in a fresh and nicely crafted wine Ð a great example of Canberra District Shiraz.

MADA YASS RIVER SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $40

Dark and dense red. Bouquet is brooding and dense with dried red berry and pepper notes. Opulent yet elegant in the mouth, with well-composed mulberries, violets, and a herbaceous savoury edge. Very well structured, finishing with a purposeful and moreish drive.

CLONAKILLA O'RIADA SHIRAZ 2023

RRP $45

Deep, dark red. Dark fruit and full spectrum spice with depth and drive on the nose, opening to a well-weighted palate with a solid tannin frame. Concentrated power with poise - a richly rewarding wine that shows its maker's skill.

FOUR WINDS VINEYARD SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2023

RRP $45

Beautiful mid-red to almost purple in the glass with a classic cool climate nose of rose petal, elderflower, graphite and black cherry spice. Palate is elegant yet juicy, fresh and clean with hints of marzipan and apricot jam. Gorgeous!

LERIDA ESTATE SINGLE VINEYARD SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2021

RRP $75

Deep, rich red. Ripe, dark berry, dried herbs and spice notes in a classy, poised bouquet. Palate is almost Pinot-like, with supple, spiced, bright red fruits, velvety tannins and a long, savoury finish. Will only get better.

NICK O'LEARY BOLARO SHIRAZ 2021

RRP $58

Bright and youthful in appearance. Nose is clean and complex with cassis, white pepper and red fruits. Palate is light and layered, with a well-integrated savoury spice character and tight, silky tannins. A wine of quality and distinction.

VINEYARD 1207 SHIRAZ 2021

RRP $30

Crisp, clear garnet. Aromas of bright blue fruits, cherries and white pepper spice, continuing onto the fresh palate. Tight, fine tannins, light oak and medium acidity make for a well-balanced, fruit-driven Shiraz that ticks all the boxes.

FOUR WINDS VINEYARD SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $39

Mid-red in colour. Juicy and clean black cherry and berry fruit aromas with a hint of geranium and spice. Palate displays well defined lines and acid push in an expressive and focused wine with a clean, satisfying finish.

CHROMA WINES SHIRAZ GRENACHE MOUVEDRE 2023

RRP $33

Light to mid-red in appearance. Lifted, earthy violets and spice with blackberry and white pepper aromas. Palate is zesty and lively on entry in a medium-bodied wine with gentle tannins and a clean, pleasant finish.

NICK O'LEARY HEYWOOD SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $37

Bright garnet. Nose displays red fruits, sage and lifted white pepper, opening onto a fresh, medium-weight palate of dark and red berry fruits with a hint of bramble and classy oak. A fine, savoury tannin drive to the finish: lovely.

MOUNT MAJURA SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $38

Bright, pretty red in the glass. Lovely aromatics of red berries and spice. Palate is softly textured with nuanced, understated fruit, making for a subtle and sophisticated wine with savoury hints of chocolate and graphite.

LERIDA ESTATE SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $32

Dark, dense red. Nose is complex with rich, dark fruits, following through to a glossy, mid-weight palate with a warm red fruit and blackcurrant core, showing hints of liquorice and chocolate before a long, soft tannin finish. A winner.

EDEN ROAD THE LONG ROAD SHIRAZ 2023

RRP $30

Dark red with purple hues. Subtle aromas of dark cherry, blackberry and black pepper, extending to a complex palate with velvety tannins and a long, savoury finish. An elegant mid-weight wine that's sure to please.

JEIR CREEK SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $50

Deep, brooding crimson in the glass. Dark berry fruits and rich plum aromas. Palate is well-balanced with pepper and spice, open and generous with savoury dark fruit. Firm, well-structured tannins and poised acidity lead to a drying, satisfying finish. Luxurious.

LINEAR HILLTOPS SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $30

Deep, rich crimson in colour. Layered, powerful aromas of cocoa and ripe plum with raspberry, cherry and dark berry notes. Hints of pepper and pot pourri inform the savoury, textural palate, which is well-weighted with well integrated oak and earthy tannins.

MOPPITY ESCALIER SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $150

Dark, dense red. Intense, concentrated aromas of black and blue fruits, bramble, graphite, pepper and spice. Palate is smooth and mouth-filling with sweet black fruits, dark chocolate, and layered spice notes. A focused, polished wine with a long, powerful finish.

MOPPITY BLOCK A5 SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $45

Bright garnet. Bouquet intrigues with desiccated fruits and light berry lift. Palate is lively with bright red fruit characters in a mid-weight frame, with balanced acidity and dry, chalky tannins driving a moreish finish.

BRINDABELLA HILLS SHIRAZ 2023

RRP $30

Mid-to-dark red. Lifted, earthy spice with fine red fruit aromas. Palate continues where the nose leaves off, with red fruit characters complemented by subtle white pepper and gentle spice. Fine, soft and nicely textured, this is a simple yet sophisticated wine.

LERIDA ESTATE CULLERIN SYRAH 2022

RRP $44

Bright garnet. Floral aromas of white and pink pepper with jubey fruit notes. Palate is meaty with spice/clove notes and rich purple and blue fruit. A clean, tight and intriguing wine, worthy of your attention.

CAPITAL WINES THE LEADER OF THE HOUSE SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2022

RRP $32

Ruby red in appearance. Nuanced plum, aniseed and clove aromas. Palate is nicely weighted with well-formed, silky tannins, laden with black cherry, blueberry and dark chocolate with a lovely savoury finish.

CHROMA WINES SHIRAZ 2022

RRP $33

Mid red in colour. Attractive spice aromas with good fruit density. Jubey red fruits with firm tannins define the medium-weight palate, with hints of vanillin oak and light toast flavours present. A pleasant, fresh wine that finishes clean.

QUARRY HILL CANBERRA DISTRICT SHIRAZ 2018

RRP $30

Dark red. Aromas of dark pepper, dark fruits and spice. Medium-bodied but flavoursome palate with red berry fruit, fine tannins and well-balanced acidity: an elegant wine that strides the sweet/savoury divide very nicely indeed.

LARK HILL DARK HORSE VINEYARD SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2021

RRP $45

Mid-red in appearance. Spice lift of clove, all-spice and herb with fresh red fruit aromas. Palate shows good weight and density in a classy, powerful wine, packed with red berry and pepper characters. Has a brilliant future.

CAPITAL WINES THE FRONTBENCHER SHIRAZ 2023

RRP $32

Deep red in the glass with a clean nose of berries and earthy, savoury spice. Round and full palate brimming with fragrant spice, pepper, and dark berry fruit, with classy, soft tannins powering a long, rich finish.

SAPLING YARD SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2023

RRP $38

Youthful, bright and medium bodied, this wine show plenty of promise from a tough year. Violets, cloves, mulberry and dried herbs lift the aromatics and a balanced swathe of dark berries, liquorice and herbs skate across a glossy palate for a tidy finish. One for the cellar.

SAPLING YARD SHIRAZ VIOGNIER 2021

RRP $38

Carla Rodeghiero & Malcolm Burdett have crafted a polished wine with depth and class. The aromatics are concentrated with herbs, spice apricots, red and dark fruits, and lifted flowers. The palate is savoury, balanced and plush with supple layers of rich plums and raspberries. Fine graphite layers add positivity to the palate feel. One of the top wines of the tasting, great value.