Life
Selector's Weekend Guide To Southern Tasmania
Where to eat, drink, stay and play in the southernmost reaches of the Apple Isle.
Rugged, rustic, utterly radiant – welcome to Southern Tasmania.
Just 15 years ago Hobart was a striking, but sleepy, small town on the River Derwent overlooked by the dramatic kunanyi (Mount Wellington). Then eccentric gambling entrepreneur David Walsh decided to open a museum outside the Tasmanian capital that he hoped would both shock and entertain. His Museum of Old and New Art (Mona) became an instant success story. Simultaneously, the whiskies made by pioneering distiller Bill Lark grabbed global attention, Gourmet Farmer Matthew Evans gained TV exposure, and the team behind the Agrarian Kitchen let the rest of Australia in on the freshness and variety of Tasmanian produce.
At the same time, the rest of Australia started to recognise the quality of cool climate wines – largely sparkling, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay – made by small family wineries including Pooley and Stefan Lubiana. A boom in wine and spirits, along with artisan ciders, became a drawcard for thirsty visitors and, suddenly, Hobart was a happening destination. The three valleys surrounding Hobart – the Huon, the Derwent and the Coal River – also caught the wave of excitement, as did the Tasman Peninsula, where villages close to the Port Arthur Historic Site soon became tourism destinations. Hobart today has several international hotels but retains its charm with many Georgian buildings.
Locals and visitors descend on the Salamanca Markets each Saturday and the looming mountain is home to many walking trails – and dramatic views – that are popular all year round, although it can be very chilly in winter. European settlement in the Tasmanian capital dates back to 1804, making it the second-oldest city in Australia, and the area was occupied by Indigenous people who now call themselves Palawa.
As recently as 15 years ago Hobart was a little dull. But Mona’s arrival helped change ‘Slowbart’ forever. Now visitors can stay in world-class hotels including The Tasman, the Henry Jones Art Hotel, the Vibe and Movenpick, and eat in acclaimed restaurants including Fico, Peppina (helmed by celebrity chef Massimo Mele), Aloft and newcomer Maria, feasting on fresh local seafood and local wines. Templo, Landscape, Frank, and Mure’s Upper Deck are other reliable sources of sustenance. Quirky festivals now enliven the winter months, cafes, bars, and restaurants are booming. The locals, however, remain laid-back, and it can be hard to find somewhere open for dinner early in the week.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, SHOP AND STAY IN HOBART
Hobart’s waterfront precinct is home to several punts selling fish and chips and ice cream, and Salamanca Market is a perennial favourite. The Sydney-Hobart Yacht Race finishes at Constitution Dock, next to where the annual Taste of Summer gourmet festival is held. The nearby Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens is a regular venue for concerts and events, while local produce is a feature of the many eateries in the suburbs of North Hobart and Sandy Bay, which are also home to many galleries and arts and crafts establishments.
On Sundays, gourmets venture to Hobart Farm Gate Market to buy fruit, vegetables, and other produce direct from the farmers. It is obligatory for anyone visiting to take the Mona Roma ferry from Brooke Street Pier to the northern suburb of Berriedale to visit the landmark museum and its many treasures, including The Source restaurant. And there are dozens of places to stay, including The Tasman, a Marriott Luxury Collection property, and sister establishments the Henry Jones Art Hotel and waterfront MACq 01. Other popular options include the leafy and elegant Islington Hotel on the city fringes and budget-priced Art Deco establishment, The Alabama, for those who are willing to share bathrooms for a night or two.
Eat and drink in style at Fish Frenzy, a stylish fish and chippery right on the water, while chef Joff Jennings offers a more sophisticated seafood experience at Blue Eye – when he is not running marathons. For serious foodies, Omotenashi is a 10-seat, counter-style restaurant nestled inside the Lexus of Tasmania showroom and operated by talented duo Sophie Pope and Lachlan Colwill. Also check out casual wine bars Molto – owned by the Lubiana family of winemaking fame – and Institut Polaire, along with Sonny, Lucinda, and Dier Makr. Wine lovers should also pop into the urban winery of award-winning winemaker Nick Glaetzer from Glaetzer Dixon Family Winemakers. Lark Distilling Co. and The Still, Lark’s late-night bar, should be on the radar for whisky lovers.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, STOP AND STAY IN HUON VALLEY
Around 30 minutes south of the city, past the dormitory town of Kingston, the Huon Valley and d’Entrecasteaux Channel are both scenic and fun, with a ferry side trip to Bruny Island well worthwhile. On Bruny you can walk along Fluted Cape, visit the historic lighthouse, enjoy a sea kayak tour or an eco-cruise, and enjoy some cheese and local beverages at Bruny Island Cheese. The local watering hole, the Hotel Bruny, does excellent pub grub.
After your return ferry trip check out Grandvewe Sheep Cheese and Hartshorn Distillery. The Huon Valley – known for its many apple and cherry orchards - boasts the Hastings Caves and Thermal Springs, the Tahune Airwalk above the trees, and many walking trails up the Hartz Mountain range, as well as small towns like Geeveston, Franklin, and Cygnet.
First stop on the way in from Hobart should be Willie Smith’s, a cidery, café and mini-distillery with some interesting apple industry artifacts on display. Home Hill, with an impressive vineyard restaurant, and Kate Hill Wines (check out the views) are both nearby. Huon River Cruises, based at Castle Forbes Bay, operates on the tranquil river, while Huon Jet is based on the Esplanade in Huonville for the more adventurous.
Huonville is the biggest town in the region and home to reliably good restaurants in The Lost Captain and The Kiln Eatery, along with Jin’s Kitchen Korean. Turn left at Huonville for the 18-kilometre trip to Cygnet, a cute waterfront village that is home to art galleries, a museum, craft shops and cafes including the Red Velvet Lounge, Conservatory Café at the Old Bank, and the Porthole Café. The Old Bank has excellent B&B accommodation, The Roundhouses boast a wood-fired outdoor hot tub, and Woodland Bay Retreat has an on-site sauna, hot tub, and gym.
Just out of town you will find some of the most authentic Thai food in the state at Ashcraig Farm, with a chef from Isaan and dishes as hot as you can handle. On the other side of the river, you will hit the hamlets of Franklin – where they still build traditional wooden boats – Geeveston, and Dover, until the southernmost road in Australia runs out and you hit the south-west wilderness.
The Kermandie Hotel and Little Seed Studio, overlooking the river, are good places to stay, while Franklin is home to quirky Cinnamon and Cherry, a small café specialising in gourmet treats from Türkiye and the Middle East. Just across the road, Osteria at Petty Sessions serves warming Italian dishes on the bank of the river. The Huon/Channel is home to several other outstanding wine producers in Mewstone/Hughes & Hughes and Elsewhere, along with Chatto, and Sailor Seeks Horse, neither of which has a cellar door but can be visited by appointment. Also make a note of Frank’s Cider in Franklin and Pagan Cider outside Cygnet.
The former logging town of Geeveston has offerings including a terrific kids’ playground, along with some of the best Japanese food in the state at Masaaki’s, local food, and wines at Harvest & Light and good lunches at the Old Bank of Geeveston. Not too far away, Huon Hunter Valley has three luxury cabins on offer. For accommodation with water views, Woodland Bay Retreat and Helms Bay Cottage are good alternatives.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, STOP AND STAY IN DERWENT VALLEY
Head north from Hobart about 20 kilometres, turn left at Granton, and you are on your way into this gourmet region, centred on the emerging town of New Norfolk. First stops should be two of the state’s best wineries, Derwent Estate and Stefano Lubiana, both of which have top-notch on-site restaurants highlighting Tasmanian produce.
New Norfolk’s antique stores can be complemented by visits to local distilleries and cider producers, including Lawrenny, Derwent Distillery, and Plenty Cider, while Meadowbank is a de rigueur stop for wine lovers. The Agrarian Kitchen offers cooking lessons and fine dining at its new facility in New Norfolk town centre.
Rathmore has guest house accommodation in an old Georgian Manor Farm, as well as more rustic stables, while the stylish The Pickers Hut at Invercarron is surrounded by vineyards and overlooks the Jordan River. Head towards the waterfalls and bushwalks of the Mount Field National Park, have a beer at the ultra-quirky The National Park Hotel, and stay at the recently-arrived luxe cabins at Mount Field Retreats.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, STOP AND STAY IN COAL RIVER VALLEY
With the historic town of Richmond at its heart, this region close to Hobart Airport is bursting with wine tasting opportunities. Pooley Wines, with tastings in an old Georgian manor house, is a must-visit (try the pizzas if you can), while Frogmore Creek/42 Degrees South has an appealing eatery with vineyard views, and waterfront Riversdale Estate is a family-owned property with a heritage dating back to 1824.
Out of town, Domaine A is known for its long-lived red wines. Puddleduck, Nocton and Pressing Matters are other cellar door names to look out for. Richmond has lots of Georgian-era houses and is home to the oldest bridge in Australia with treats like antique emporiums, galleries, lolly, and tea shops, while Coal River Farm and Wicked Cheese are good spots to pick up local gourmet treats. A beer at The Richmond Arms pub is recommended. Prospect Country House, owned by the Pooley family, may be the best address, but there are plenty of guest houses and Airbnb options to choose from.
WHERE TO EAT, DRINK, STOP AND STAY ON THE TASMAN PENINSULA
As well as the World Heritage-listed Port Arthur site - regarded as the best-preserved convict-era site in Australia - there are plenty of options for the thirsty, including boutique distilleries like Nonesuch, William McHenry’s, Hellfire Bluff and Dunalley Bay Distillery. The brand new Bream Creek Vineyard cellar door has spectacular views and features tastings and platters, while there are more substantial food offerings at nearby Cape Bernier and the attractive Bangor complex.
The fresh local oysters from Blue Lagoon Oysters are among the best in the state, while Port Arthur Lavender Farm, is an excellent choice for a drink and snack. The more energetic might attempt the 461m Three Capes Track walk, while surfers can challenge the giant waves of Shipstern Bluff. Southern Tassie may seem small, but it’s a world in itself for those willing to explore.
THINGS TO KNOW ABOUT TRAVELLING SOUTHERN TASMANIA
Do be aware these are all country areas. Car trips will take longer than you expect as there are no traffic lights and you may well get stuck behind a tractor, or held up by cattle crossing the road. Many businesses are closed early in the week and can shut as early as 4pm. Do your research as there are no chain hotels or big resorts here – but you will be able to purchase gourmet goodies from local roadside honesty stalls, where you take what you want and deposit your money in a box. Many of the top wine producers, including Stargazer, Chatto, Sailor Seeks Horse, and Clarence House, do not have cellar doors, so if you have your heart set on trying a particular label, then stock up in Hobart.
SPECIAL OFFERS AND MUST-VISIT WINERIES - SOUTHERN TASMANIA TASTE PLAY STAY
Few Australian regions share the unspoiled splendour of Southern Tasmania, a slice of sheer heaven at the far end of the world. From its mountainous reaches to its splendid valleys and pristine waterways, it is home to a veritable cornucopia of exquisite sights and first-rate producers.
Celebrated worldwide for the quality of its Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and sparkling wines, the unassuming regions that it consists of have emerged as contributors to the Australian wine story, and an unmistakable drawcard for travellers of all types – from wine lovers to gourmands, and more adventurous types willing to scale its heights and plumb its depths.
Rich in heritage, history, and unparalleled natural beauty, Southern Tasmania deserves to be on every right-minded person’s destination bucket list.
MEWSTONE WINES
Nestled on the cool, southern edge of Tasmania, Mewstone Wines pushes the boundaries of Australian cool climate winemaking. Founded in 2011 on the banks of the D’Entrecasteaux Channel by brothers Matt and Jonny Hughes, Mewstone offers expressive single-site wines. Winemaker Jonny Hughes leads the charge, meticulously crafting exceptional Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, and Riesling under the Mewstone label. His innovative spirit finds an outlet in the Hughes & Hughes collection, allowing for experimentation beyond traditional boundaries.
Mewstone Winery and Vineyard
EXPERIENCES ON OFFER
A visit to Mewstone is a feast for the senses, an invitation to experience its wines right where they were made. Through a curated tasting guided by the passionate Mewstone team, visitors are immersed in an intimate cellar door experience, savouring the nuances of Mewstone and Hughes & Hughes wines, and the unique flavours born from Tasmania’s cool climate. Unwind with breathtaking views, and treat yourself to a locally sourced seasonal platter, the perfect complement to your wine tasting adventure. The Mewstone Wines Cellar Door is open 11.00am-4.00pm, Friday, Saturday and Sunday, and reservations are highly recommended.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Head to a favourite local spot, Peppermint Bay, for a waterfront dining experience featuring fresh, seasonal cuisine straight from their garden. Bookings are recommended for the weekends.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
Winter Warmer Suggestion: Pair the Hughes & Hughes 2023 Syrah with a rich, locally sourced mushroom risotto. The black cherry, blackcurrant, and black pepper notes in the Syrah dance with the umami richness of the risotto, creating a symphony of flavour that is the perfect antidote for the cold weather. www.mewstonewines.com.au
CALEDON ESTATE
High on the slopes of the Coal River Valley, on ancient, volcanic soils, Caledon Estate is a newly crafted, family-owned, single-site vineyard overlooking the historic village of Richmond. Producing exceptionally well balanced, cool climate wines full of flavour, its range includes Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Caledon’s architectural cellar door offers visitors a stunning, cosy space to drink wine while enjoying scenic views over the valley to kunanyi/Mt Wellington, with a menu featuring small plates of local Tasmanian goodness.
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Hobart’s coolest wine bar, Molto, are purveyors of the highest quality wines and smallgoods, and offer an intriguing list of international and local wines.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
The 2022 Caledon Pinot Noir pairs beautifully with Tasmanian lamb, or enjoy local oysters with a bottle of 2023 Caledon Pinot Gris. www.caledonestate.com.au
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Valid Until: Monday, 30 June 2025
BANGOR VINEYARD SHED
Nestled within the breathtaking beauty of Boomer Bay, on the tourist route to historic Port Arthur, you’ll find the award-winning, family-owned Bangor Vineyard Shed. Here, the vines are hand tended, producing premium quality, cool-climate wines, including Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Riesling, Rosé and sparkling. Explore the vineyard’s range through a food and wine pairing experience, featuring produce from the surrounding land and sea. Visitors can also join a guided vineyard tour and discover the meticulous care behind every bottle, or simply relax with a leisurely lunch, from a menu that showcases the best of Tasmanian cuisine, enjoying sweeping views of the vineyard and bay.
A tasting at Bangor Cellar Door
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
Take the Tasman Wine and Spirits Trail and discover boutique wineries and artisan distilleries amidst the scenery and historic sites of Tasmania’s southeast coast.
WINE + FOOD MATCH
Bangor Abel Tasman Pinot Noir and pan-fried lamb backstrap is a match made in heaven! bangorshed.com.au
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Valid Until: Saturday, 31 August 2024
NOCTON VINEYARD
With 34 hectares of winemaking nirvana planted in the geographical heart of the Coal River Valley, Norton crafts wines of passion and determination. Planted in 1999, the vines at Nocton Vineyard are some of the Coal River Valley’s oldest. Under the care of a highly skilled viticulturist, and a passionate and dedicated team, many of whom are locals, they have been producing fruit that consistently yields premium-quality, cool climate wines with well-rounded flavours.
The area is renowned for its rich dolerite-based soils atop Jurassic sandstone subsoils, and the vineyard is fortunate to have access to the Coal River for irrigation, and a picturesque dam which offers a beautiful view for visitors.
Wine and Cheese Pairning at Nocton Wines
EXPERIENCES ON OFFER
The cellar door is warm and inviting and is open seven days a week, offering Nocton’s full selection of wines for tasting. Both Estate and Reserve wines are available for tasting, and while dainty, the cellar door offers expansive views. The staff are passionate about the vineyard and wines, and they provide informative and friendly guidance to guests as they explore the wine list. Exquisite cheese platters are also available, featuring products sourced primarily from the local area, and all wines can be shipped throughout Australia.
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Valid Until: Tuesday, 31 December 2024
LOCAL RECOMMENDATION
The area is home to the charming town of Richmond, Tasmania, a historic town known for its array of interesting sights. The most famous of these is the iconic Richmond Bridge, one of the oldest bridges in Australia still in use today. The town recently celebrated its 200th anniversary.
FOOD + WINE MATCH
At this time of year with spring on the doorstep, Rosé is always a good wine, and Nocton’s is a blend of Merlot and Chenin. A grilled lemon herb Mediterranean chicken salad is a fantastic pairing choice, highlighting the wine’s ability to complement a variety of flavours and dishes. www.noctonwine.com.au