Wine
Katnook - Coonawarra Heritage Endures
At the heart of Coonawarra’s story lives Katnook, a place formative to the region’s identity and evolution. At a recent tasting Selector discovers that time and loss has not wearied the Katnook legacy.
Up until recently, Katnook’s story was shaped by two of Coonawarra’s historic prime movers: John Riddoch and Wayne Stehbens. John Riddoch, the father of the region, arrived in 1861, purchased land and planted fruit trees. The trees took and thrived at a surprising rate, so he started looking for land with the same red dirt.
Soil that we now know as Conoawarra’s distinctive Terra Rossa. One of the plots he found had a local Indigenous name that translated to ‘Katnook’, meaning ‘fat land’. John bought 140 acres and planted vines. He trialled the first vintage, then produced a second, commercial batch in 1896, in a woolshed that still stands today at Katnook.
EARLY HISTORY OF COONAWARRA AND KATNOOK
The iconic Katnook Prodigy and Odyssey.
Keen to capitalise, John set up Coonawarra Fruit Colony, divided the land into 10-acre plots and, in essence, Coonawarra was born. John passed suddenly in 1901 but the groundwork had been laid and Coonawarra pushed through the early 1900s, beginning to gather steam and attention as the table wine industry began to grow off the back of its fortified fathers.
As Harry Waugh writes in his Christies-published Harry Waugh’s Wine Diary in 1978, “Coonawarra is the area where the greatest of all Australian reds are produced.” Harry’s lofty praise for the reds of Coonawarra was published just as Wayne Stehbens was finishing up his winemaking degree at Charles Sturt University.
Wayne’s father Ray was the then-GM of Katnook. He was re-establishing vineyards and was yet to release a wine. Wayne, having spent school holidays on the property, became the winemaker in 1979 and made Katnook’s first wines in the old woolshed. Wayne’s connection and understanding soon fuelled the growth and identity of the estate, winning 49 awards for their first vintage.
He went on to receive numerous awards, including two Jimmy Watson Trophies (1987 and 1998) and a double Trophy at the prestigious International Wine & Spirit Competition in 2003. He remains as one of only six Australian wine producers to have three wines with a current Langton’s classification.
Wayne’s wife Michelle eventually became Katnook’s cellar door manager and drove the restoration of the woolshed, stables and John Riddoch’s office into one of Coonawarra’s leading cellar door and function venues. Wayne completed 39 Katnook vintages until his untimely passing in 2017. Wayne considered himself as a custodian of Katnook and Coonawarra, and rarely took credit for the role in defining the modern face of Coonawarra.
TASTING THE BEST WINES OF KATNOOK COONAWARRA
Katnook Estate Chardonnay 2021 | 2022 | 2023
Katnook Estate Shiraz 2002 | 2018 | 2021 | 2022
Katnook Prodigy Shiraz 2002 | 2012 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022
Katnook Estate Cabernet Sauvignon 1984 | 1987 | 2010 | 2018 | 2021 | 2022
Katnook Odyssey Cabernet Sauvignon 1990 | 1996 | 2013 | 2019 | 2021 | 2022
IN CONVERSATION WITH DAN MCNICOL, KATNOOK WINEMAKER
Katnook custodian, lead winemaker Daniel McNicol.
The historical Riddoch woolshed built in the late 1800s.
After an ownership change and a series of short appointments, Daniel McNicol is now at the helm, having joined Katnook as an assistant winemaker in 2019 after graduating in winemaking from the University of Adelaide. McNicol started as assistant winemaker and after two vintages is now Katnook’s custodian. For seven years before and during his studies, he worked in both the winery and vineyard at McLaren Vale’s Wirra Wirra, but understands and is excited about the potential of Coonawarra and the revered place that Katnook holds within that.
“Katnook represents a vital connection between tradition and evolution,” says McNicol. Its wines embody a classic, terroir-driven approach, which has been essential in distinguishing Australia’s premium offerings on the global stage. “Katnook showcases the diversity of Australian wine, in a refined cool-climate style that contrasts with the richer, bolder expressions from warmer regions. It plays a crucial role in reminding the world of Australia’s ability to produce world-class, age-worthy wines with depth and sense of place.”
ON KATNOOK CHARDONNAY
Coming full circle - Dan McNicol tasting in the original Riddoch woolshed.
In 2013, Selector visited Katnook and Wayne and a special tasting, stretching back to the early vintages of the estate, was held in the original (recently refurbished) woolshed. It was a privileged tasting experience, and now with McNicol at the helm it seemed only fitting to recreate the experience to see where the wines, and the fortunes of the estate are heading.
Starting with one of the region’s underrated assets, Chardonnay, the youthful line-up only reinforced the opinion that that there is an appealing style and identity to Coonawarra Chardonnay. Mid-weighted, fine, taut, and framed with a chalky minerality, Katnook’s Chardonnays are defined by pure shades of citrus and restrained layers of stonefruits fleshing out the palate.
“Chardonnay here is about balance, richness and freshness,” offers McNicol at the tasting. “They are textured, elegant with vibrant white peach and nectarines, bright lemons and grapefruit, and a gentle creaminess from oak and lees that adds texture without overpowering the wine.” They certainly deserve more recognition than they receive; they do however live in the shadow of the region’s red supremacy, so it’s easy to understand why.
The 2021 was just starting to open up and shine with juicy restraint and elegance, making it the standout of the bracket. The 2023 was energetic, fine and pure, and shows great future promise as it will no doubt open up.
ON KATNOOK SHIRAZ
Up until the 1950s, Shiraz was the dominant variety of the region, and whilst today’s modern hero is Cabernet, it’s clear that the cool-climate-shaped, savoury Shiraz that come from Coonawarra should always be in the conversation when talking about Australia’s best. Wayne Stehbens understood this and always spread his efforts equally between Coonawarra’s co-workers, Cabernet and Shiraz. It was fitting that his first Jimmy Watson win was a 1986 Cabernet/Shiraz blend he made under the-then Katnook sub-label Riddoch, then again in 1998 for his Premium Katnook Shiraz, later released as Prodigy.
“Coonawarra Shiraz have fine-grained tannins and a polished elegance, utilising oak that enhances without dominating the fruit prof ile,” McNicol explains. “Katnook’s Shiraz highlights the finesse of Coonawarra, offering a beautiful cool-climate expression with notes of white pepper spice, vibrant blue and black fruit, and a hint of savoury complexity.”
Across the Estate range back to 2002, the Estate Shiraz wines retain and add to the decades-old mantra of consistency, style, structure and weight. All wines have savoury, spicy, dark berry aromas, and some of the best held extra layers of exotic clove and sweet smoke. On the palate, all had fine tannins that varied from silky in cooler years to structured and textured in the drier years. The 2002 reigned supreme: youthful, mid-weighted and delicate; and both the 2018 and 2021 showed they were going to follow suit.
The Prodigy line-up was a real treat, presenting a weightier expression of Coonawarra Shiraz. These wines have more oak, more extraction, and as a result more depth and extra red and blue berries, spice and length. The 2019 led the pack with classy development starting to show, the 2021 impressed with its bright and lifted characters, the 2002 was glorious. We all agreed the one to buy, cellar and watch though was the 2022, with elegance and generosity to burn.
ON KATNOOK CABERNET
After looking at a line-up of wines that span over 40 years, it’s easy to understand why Cabernet sits on the throne in Coonawarra, and how it has become so revered. Everything tasted highlighted the unique structure and elegance for which Coonawarra Cabernet is celebrated. “Katnook’s Cabernets are a true reflection of Coonawarra’s terroir and tradition,” explains McNicol. “They strike a balance between elegance and power with balanced intensity and concentration; approachable in their youth, but with the potential to evolve beautifully over time.”
Like the Shiraz, both the Estate and Odyssey Cabernets promote a supreme consistency of style, structure and weight with timeless ease. The Estate Cabernets are mid-weighted, elegant and pretty, with full, supple palates of plum, cassis, mulberry and blackberry tinged with spice and earth. The 40-year-old 1984 was incredible; delicate, creamy with a leathery mix of secondary tertiary flavours.
Other highlights were the 2021 for its ageing potential and texture, the 2010 for its sweet elegance, the 2018 for its fresh, earthy power, and the 2022 for its generosity. Plush, detailed and opulent, the Odyssey Cabernets are the ultimate showcase of experience and understanding of what can be achieved with Coonawarra Cabernet.
Now in its third decade, Odyssey continues to honour both the soil and the folk that have worked it by preserving and extending history. All wines were sublime, however 1990’s concentrated, regal youth and 2021’s drive and power led the bracket, followed by 2022’s intensity and 2019’s elegance.
KATNOOK AND THE HEART OF COONAWARRA
As Coonawarra’s second-largest wine producer, Katnook plays a pivotal role in defining the region’s identity. Under McNicol’s stewardship, fed by an appreciation for those before him, Katnook looks set to preserve the legacy built on Riddoch’s pioneering spirit and Wayne Stehbens’ quality-driven ethos, to continue as a vanguard of Coonawarra’s future.