Wine

State of Play Orange Chardonnay

In the foothills and on the slopes of an extinct volcano, Australian Chardonnay has found a new capital of cool in the Orange wine region.

Seemingly overnight, Orange has become a major player in Australia’s burgeoning cool climate winegrowing sector. An amazing feat, considering that it’s just 40 years since a handful of naive pioneers planted vines 250 kilometres west of Sydney.

Constituted in 1997, the Orange G.I. (Geographic Indicator) is a vinous footprint in the shires of Blayney, Orange City, and Cabonne, with its distinguishing feature being its vineyards must be above 600 metres. It’s this elevation that makes Orange the perfect place to grow grapes of flavour and finesse. When summer temperatures rise above 30 degrees, the locals complain of the heat, though the mercury normally drops to 10-15 degrees at night. Winter is cold, minus 5 is not uncommon and modest snowfalls a winter delight.

It’s this wide diurnal range that’s the key to the pristine flavours and bright acidity that define Orange wines (I mean wines from the Orange G.I., not the confusing use of the term ‘orange’ to describe skin contact whites). The vine shuts down quickly at night and makes a leisurely start in the cool mornings.

The region’s topography and soils – both determined by Mt Canobolas, which, at 1,395 metres, is a mere hillock compared to its original height when it spewed out lava 11 million years ago – are other unique contributors. These ancient volcanic soils have broken down to produce the deep red earth that is another Orange hallmark. That said, the best vineyards are considered those planted on the rockier outcrops with underlying limestone from what was once Australia’s vast inland sea.

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THE GRAPE

Chardonnay is a highly versatile grape – be it for Sparkling wine, commercial, or prestige table wines. While the sprawling Riverland regions make decent everyday Chardonnay for consumption, it’s in cooler climes that the varietal really shines: think Adelaide Hills, the dress circle of Melbourne (Macedon Ranges, Yarra Valley, the Mornington and Bellarine Peninsulas), Tasmania, Tumbarumba – and, of course, Orange.

Orange Chardonnay has grown in style and confidence in the 20 years I’ve called this picturesque area my home. Early wines from Bloodwood, Canobolas Smith and the Rosemount Rose label showed the initial promise of the cooler sites in Orange, but it’s been the new wave of winegrowers that have taken the region’s signature white to a higher plane. “Higher” is an appropriate term, for the best sites for this beloved grape are above 850 metres – be they be at Nashdale, Mount Canobolas, Lidster, Emu Swamp, or towards Blayney. 

THE PLAYERS

Philip Shaw, the legendary Rosemount Estate winemaker, helped pivot Orange from infancy towards maturity when he planted the Koomooloo Vineyard in 1989. Shaw made his name as Rosemount’s Chardonnay maestro with grapes grown in the warm Upper Hunter Region. The first releases from Koomooloo were under the Rosemont Estate Rose label, with his eponymous Philip Shaw Wines launched in 2004. The ever-restless Shaw now crafts wines under his HOOSEGG banner, leaving son, Daniel to make the family’s wines.

The likes of Daniel Shaw, Mark Davidson (Tamburlaine), Will Rikard Bell (Rikard Wines), Nadja Wallington (ChaLou), Tom Ward (Swinging Bridge), Drew Tuckwell (Printhie), Jeff Byrne (Byrne Farm), Jonathan Mallick (Canobolas Wines), Charles Simons (Mayfield Vineyards) and stalwart Chris Derez are helping drive Orange Chardonnay to new places today. 

THE VINTAGES

What ends up in the bottle of course varies from year to year and vintages here can be changeable. Most recently, 2023 was a cool, damp year full of viticultural challenges, yet the two 2023 wines in the tasting held their heads high; 2022 was a top year with great ageing potential, being very cool overall with a wet November an unnerving start. “Picking was three weeks later than average,” said Angullong vigneron Ben Crossing. A mild 2021 saw modest volumes. “While the quality of the 2021 wines is strong, the effects of the drought bore their mark, with lower-than-average yields recorded,” said Swinging Bridge winemaker Tom Ward. Sadly, 2020 was smoke affected with a nary a grape picked, while 2019 was the last of the El Niño vintages.

Orange Chardonnay has grown in style and confidence.

- Peter Bourne, "The Wine Man"

THE HIGHLIGHTS

The tasting scorecard tells a fuller story with 18 wines from the 2022 vintage reviewed. Four Chardonnays were priced below $30 and the two 2023 wines tasted were both under $30 – not surprising given the prestige wines from 2023 were still in barrel when the Selector tasting was held.

The eight wines reviewed from 2021 confirmed the finesse of the year. The single vineyard wines from Printhie showed well (the 2021 Millwood and Wattleview), achieving their winemaker Drew Tuckwell’s goal. “I am looking for regionality, personality and interest. Dark citrus, light stone fruit. Sensitive use of oak. Freshness and vibrancy.”

Nadja Wallington of ChaLou honed in on the 2021 Rikard Black Label, which satisfied her criteria of “Power and elegance. Orange has the potential to produce world class Chardonnay with detail, finesse and drive.” Panellist Andrew Higgins of Tamburlaine Wines sought “brightness of fruit and vibrant natural acidity: detailed wines of finesse, texture and well managed acidity.” He found it in the 2021 Rikard Black Label and the pair of Swinging Bridge single site wines, Hill Park and Caldwell Lane Block A.  I enjoyed their $35 sibling Mrs Payten - a delightful drink-me-now style.

Another supporter of the 2021 Caldwell Lane Block A was newcomer, Jonathan Mallick of Canobolas Wines, who found it demonstrated “purity and precision with both fruit density and power: fragrant, elegant and persistent.” The pair of See Saw Chardonnays offered great value also, with the 2022 Invergo at $40 and the 2022 Balance a mere $25. “I look for purity of fruit, delicacy and balanced acidity with oak playing a supporting role,” states their winemaker, Monica Gray. On that account, she comfortably succeeded. Lastly, I loved Jeff Byrne’s Byrne Farm 2022; the Hunter Valley veteran’s move to Orange has been a great boon for the region. 

THE FUTURE

For now, the 2024 vintage is well under way. The La Niña has evaporated (except for some localised storms), with the prospect of a warm season welcomed by the winegrowing community. Time, of course, will tell.

Meanwhile, the quality of both 2021 and 2022 vintages shone through at our tasting, and Chardonnay lovers have much to look forward to as the top drops from 2023 hit the market – a cool change, and a highly anticipated one, to be sure.

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TASTING NOTES

RIKARD BLACK LABEL CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $65
An exotic and complex array of cinnamon, nutmeg, nuts, stonefruit and floral aromatics pave the way to  a rich palate full of cream and oak-lined layers of toast, lemons, green apples. There is a pleasant textural balance that rounds up everything nicely.

BRANGAYNE ISOLDE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $38
Tight and linear bouquet of lemon/lime and fresh apple, opening onto a very defined and distinctive palate of white stonefruit, citrus, and nuanced oak. This is an understated wine that should build beautifully over time. 

GILBERT CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $36
Fine-boned and youthful, this wine has a refreshing array of juicy lemons, lemon pith and nectarines wrapped in a frame of slatey minerals. The aromas are light and lifted with lemon balm, peach and buttery nectarines. Expresses varietal and vintage well. 

PRINTHIE MILLWOOD CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $75
Somewhat reductive in style with aromas of citrus and faint hints of struck match. Palate is light and textural with great acid structure and gentle tannins resulting in fantastic tension and length of flavour. 

SEE SAW INVERGO CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $40
One of the wines of the tasting. A delicious amalgam of variety and region with balance, structure and poise. Creamy lemon pith, melon cumquat chalk and aromatics flow into an intensely packed palate of lemon curd and white peaches.

ANGULLONG FOSSIL HILL CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $30
Another standout characterised by its delicate frame, neatly balancing intense layers of citrus, flinty stone fruits, minerals, nuts and melons. The aromas are delicate and pure with struck match, stone fruits, grapefruits and lemongrass.  

TAMBURLAINE CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $25
Precise, polished and harmonious with an impressive balance between mouthfeel and flavour. The palate is laced with grapefruits, lemon and citrus pith and the aromas appeal with a mix of nuts, creamy oak, ginger and stonefruit.

PHILIP SHAW NO 6 CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $85
A classy, generous wine from one of the region’s pioneers. Bold yet harmonious, the aromas are driven by white flowers, peaches and nectarines, while the palate is loaded with fleshy peach and sweet lemons seasoned with savoury oak. 

PRINTHIE WATTLE VIEW CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $75
A rich and regal Chardonnay with great balance and poise that carries a complex mix of savoury, sweet/citrus and stonefruit aromatics. The palate is generous with tight layers of rind-tinged lemons, honeydew and grapefruits.

SEE SAW BALANCE CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $25
Aptly named, this wine has highly appealing aromatics of white flowers, lemons, limes, custard apples and wild honey. Delicate with tighly wound layers of green melons, sour lemons and pears that will unfurl nicely. 

BYRNE FARM CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $35
Ripe and textural, this is a fruit-forward wine that begins generously with white nectarine, green apple and gunflint aromatics. The palate is a balance of green apples, lemons, white peach, minerals and honeysuckle.

SWINGING BRIDGE MRS PAYTON CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $35
A wine that strikes a clever balance between intensity and detail. Complex stonefruit, ginger, honeycomb and almond meal aromas flow through to nicely layered green apples, minerals and flint.

BRANGAYNE CHARDONNAY 2023
RRP $27
Highly evocative lemon/lime, white peach, melon and white chocolate aromas. Palate is taut and flinty, clean and refreshing, with subtle oak underneath – a lively wine that will only get better in the bottle. 

MAYFIELD VINEYARD EIGHTEEN FIFTEEN CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $37
Savoury reductive aromas of struck match, lemon pith and white peach. A textural rather than fruit-driven Chardonnay, with a poised palate of melon and citrus characters carefully framed by new oak. A keeper.

TAMBURLAINE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $39
Dark and rich on the nose with white stonefruit, almond meal and nectarine notes. Hints of toasted cashew oak in a textural, creamy palate, with a tight and linear acidity. A nuanced cool climate Chardonnay expression. 

COLMAR ESTATE RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $60
Flinty reduction, citrus and honeycomb notes. Palate is citrus-led and complex, savoury with a fine acid line, butterscotch edges and a creamy, supple character with oak in evidence. A generous wine.

BORRODELL CHARDONNAY 2017
RRP $52
Floral and nutty nose with lemon sherbet and ripe peach evident. Well integrated and fresh for its age, the palate displays a fine acid line with juicy and savoury interest that makes this a first- rate museum release. 

LOGAN CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $30
Ripe melon and yellow peach with cashew hints make an appealing entry to a palate that is fruit forward and broad in the middle, consisting of generous melon and lemon curd characters. A real crowd pleaser.

PHILIP SHAW THE ARCHITECT CHARDONNAY 2023
RRP $25
Generous, bright and ripe with an enticing nose of pink grapefruit and cumquat spice. A fleshy palate with good fruit depth and volume for a slinky, satisfying mouthfeel in a harmoniously composed Chardonnay.

ROSS HILL WINES MAYA CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $25
An intriguing nose of rich wild honey with toffee apple qualities and ripe peach and melon opens onto a generously styled palate of honey, nectarine and melon, complemented 
by refreshing acidity.

MAYFIELD VINEYARD THOMAS CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $65
A creamy and complex wine, the palate is loaded with apples, melons, peaches, and lemon/lime zest. The aromatics are heady and exotic with cooked stonefruits, vanilla, lemon pith, sulphides and almonds. One for the cellar.

PHILIP SHAW NO 11 CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $40
An expressive and elegant Chardy with depth, power and detail. White floral and stonefruit aromas are lifted with lemons and limes, while the palate has layers of savoury, toasty oak, cashews and peaches with a long and lean finish.

NASHDALE LANE COLOUR SERIES CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $40
Striking a delicious sweet and sour balance, this wine carries fresh lines of honeydew, rockmelon, and lemon pith through its creamy mouthfeel. The palate is long, the aromas  flinty with apples, guava, stonefruits and lemons.

SWINGING BRIDGE HILL PARK BLOCK 7 CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $90
A rich, ripe and generous wine from a mild vintage. The aromas are classic cool climate Chardonnay with lemons, cashews, toast and oyster shells sailing through to a creamy, juicy mouthful of preserved lemons, apples and grapefruits.

SWINGING BRIDGE CADWELL LANE BLOCK A CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $50
Lifted, elegant and pretty aromatics captivate with a heady mix of sweet florals and savoury fruits. White flowers, grapefruit, slate and white peaches lead you through to a creamy palate of elegantly weighted white peach, just-ripe pear and nectarines. 

MAYFIELD VINEYARD BLOCK 14 CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $65
Elegant and generous across the palate with a creamy mouthfeel, this wine has a stylish fruit, oak and acid balance with a refreshing and zesty lift. The aromas are pure and defined by white peach, nectarine and white flowers – lovely work from winemaker Charles Simons.

GILBERT CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $36
Fine-boned and youthful, this wine has a refreshing array of juicy lemons, lemon pith and nectarines wrapped in frame of slatey minerals. The aromas are light and lifted with lemon balm, peach and buttery nectarines. A top value Chardonnay that shows great finesse.

HOOSEGG EVERYTHING IS GOING TO PLAN CHARDONNAY 2019
RRP $58
Flinty, citrussy and toasty savoury aromas with green nectarine and hints of struck match. Palate is big with fleshy and fresh fruit notes, roasted nuts and generous, glossy oak. Another winner from Philip Shaw.

GILBERT CHARDONNAY 2016
RRP $60
Sweet spiced oak and nectarine with lemon curd and stonefruit aromas on the nose. Palate is big and juicy with a satisfying mouthfeel, hints of marmalade and toast and a fine acid line. A well-aged wine that’s in its ideal drinking window. 

PRINTHIE TOPOGRAPHY CHARDONNAY 2022
RRP $40
Light oak with lemon lime and struck match aromatics. The pithy palate is lean, flinty and acid-driven with fresh lime peel, zesty lemon and grapefruit characters, and gentle tannins that help carry the flavours.

PATINA RESERVE CHARDONNAY 2021
RRP $75 Complex and rich with a beguiling nose of nectarine, pineapple, citrus and light oak. Palate is layered yet refreshing with enticing fruit characters and delicate, nutty lees woven throughout. A satisfying wine.