Wine
The Very Best Of Mornington Pinot Noir: A Selector State Of Play
Mornington Peninsula will celebrate 50 years of winemaking in 2025, and despite not being part of the original planting mix, Pinot Noir has become the variety that has unified and driven its identity forward.
In any craft, but especially the crafting of wine, excellence is a natural affirmation of passion and dedication. When it comes to the wine business, small, family-shaped concerns are often where you will find the highest concentration of these characteristics - and invariably where you'll find some of our best, most interesting wines.
It's comforting then, being one of our most popular wine destinations, that Mornington Peninsula remains small, mostly family-driven: a region that one can comfortably argue is truly "boutique" in both its nature and character. It wouldn't be a stretch to argue further that these "low quantity, high quality" conditions are petri-dish perfect for the hardest grape to get right, and the defining factor as to why the bar is still rising.
A HISTORY OF MORNINGTON PINOT NOIR
The first vines on the Peninsula were planted by Robert Caldwell and the Balcombe family in the 1880s but were short lived. Then, in 1946, Mick Seppelt (from the eponymous wine family) planted five acres in Dromana as an experiment and a few wines were made, amongst them Riesling, interestingly. The property was taken by fire in 1967, and that, it seemed, was that. Fast-forward five years and Baillieu "Bails" Myer AC planted a hobby-sized five acres of Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling at Elgee Park, Merricks North.
Soon followed Nat White AO, and wife Rosalie, planting Pinot, Chardonnay, Merlot and Cabernet at Main Ridge Estate in 1975. Brian Stonier, meanwhile, inspired by his leanings towards Champagne, planted Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Gary Crittenden followed in 1982, planting five hectares, thus doubling the Mornington's total area under vine. Shortly after, a small group of players formed who collectively recognised the cool climate potential of the region beyond Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz and Riesling, and the region's destiny truly began to unfold.
THE KEY TO MORNINGTON'S PINOT APPEAL LIES IN ITS
DIVERSITY.
- Paul Diamond, Publisher, Selector Magazine
THE TERROIR AND CHARACTER OF MORNINGTON PINOT NOIR
There are now more than 200 vineyards sustaining 50-plus Mornington wineries and cellar doors, serving a bustling tourism trade fed by the Peninsula's proximity to Melbourne. The region's guiding light is undoubtedly Pinot Noir, which for the last two decades has been the driver of its rising reputation.
The region's collective affinity with Pinot Noir started in the 1990s as popularity for the variety grew and awards started flowing, but was solidified in 2003 with the introduction of the annual Mornington Peninsula International Pinot Noir Celebration. International attention and acclaim followed, and has continued to grow ever since.
This collective focus, and its rising tide of quality, is completely driven by its community, whose obsessive passion for Pinot seems proportionately equal to the progression of the region's reputation. From an outsider's perspective, it presents as a binding, inclusive character, driven by a community who is happy working together to lift the bar and push the collective forward. Apart from the human component, the key to Mornington's Pinot appeal lies in its diversity.
Driven by a unique cross-section of well-drained sites across its rolling hills and paddocks, warm afternoons are chilled by three separate bodies of water nearby - Port Phillip, Western Port Bay and Bass Strait - offering sometimes bracing coastal breezes that promote measured ripening windows that build complexity and structure.
Add to that mix the varying base flavours from soil type, clonal selection, fruit treatment and stylistic interpretation, and you have a broad canvas upon which to paint a Pinot masterpiece. From the highly perfumed, light and zippy to dark, deep and brooding, almost all Pinot coming from the Peninsula has depth and appeal in equal measures.
As for sub-regional definition, from the warmer, north lying sandy flatlands of Moorooduc and Tuerong you should expect well structured, highly perfumed wines with rich layers of darker fruits and spice.
The northwest-facing, central areas like Dromana and Main Ridge, on the other hand, are lined with pale brown alluvial soils that run up to Red Hill, offering elegant, deep and brooding possibilities, whilst the deep russet volcanic soils around Merricks and Balnarring on the eastern, Point Leo side of the Peninsula offer a range that presents a blend of red and dark fruit, subtle earthiness, and fine silky tannins.
Generalisations aside, each site is unique, and for vignerons, owners and winemakers willing to put in the work, the expense, and the commitment, the resulting wines can be bewitching.
TASTING MORNINGTON PINOT NOIR
The Panel: Rollo Crittenden, Paul Diamond, Jackie Lewis, Charles Warn, Mike Symons and Grace Jiranek.
Therein, for those bitten by the Pinot bug, lies the appeal. At a blind tasting curated with the assistance of the MPVA (Mornington Peninsula Vignerons Association) and the palates of a few dedicated and talented Pinot lovers (Rollo Crittenden, General Manager, Winemaker and Vineyard Manager of Crittenden Wines; Mike Symons,Winemaking and Vineyard Consultant and ex-Winemaker of Stonier; Jacquie Lewis, Group Sommelier of the Lancemore Group; Grace Jiranek, Winemaker at Eldridge Estate; and Charles Warne, Winemaker at Ten Minutes by Tractor), Selector got to have a good look under the hood at the engine driving the whole thing.
At the tasting it became clear that the past three vintages, 2021-2023, were particularly challenging, with all experiencing El Niño patterns of erratic ripening, unseasonal rainfall and cooler-than-average temperatures, significantly impacting the ripening process and reducing yields. Add to that the increased cost of production on top of a tough economic backdrop and it's clear that times are lean across the board. However, there are some beautiful wines across each price point and sub-region of the Peninsula.
"The last three years, particularly, they've been so challenging," reflects Rollo Crittenden, son of the pioneering Garry Crittenden. "I think it's pretty nice to taste through a range of 65 wines from 20-plus producers across three tough vintages and see a lovely level of quality."
TOP MORNINGTON PINOT NOIR OF THE TASTING
HANDPICKED WINES COLLECTION PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $60
One of the stars of the tasting! Bright, perfumed aromas of morello cherries, cranberries, raspberry and spice flow through to a soft and complex mouthful of red cherries and raspberries, with an earthy and elegant finish.
YABBY LAKE SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2023
RRP $75
In everyone's Top 5. Opulent and complex with lovely, silky layers of mulberries, dark cherries and spice-licked cranberries flowing across the palate. The aromas are ripe and floral with dark plums and enticing wild black cherries.
FIFTY TWO ROWS SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $65
Another Top 5 finisher, universally loved for its classy balance, silky finish and ethereal layers of savoury/creamy red cherries. The aromatics are wild and inviting with redcurrants, dried herbs, rose petal and cherries.
HANDPICKED WINES CAPELLA PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $90
Aromatics are highly attractive and perfumed with forest berries, nutmeg, spice and red flowers. Palate is complex with wild berries, black cherries, and earth flowing to a well-weighted, silky finish.
LINDENDERRY ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2023
RRP $60
Brooking aromas of blackcurrants, strawberries, dried herbs and cherries lead to well-structured, lengthy lines of black cherries, quince paste and fine white pepper. The finish is long and elegant. Loved by all for its rich generosity.
ELDRIDGE ESTATE PINOT NOIR 2023
RRP $80
A Top 10 favourite for its complexity and well-managed power-to- weight, fruit and mouthfeel construction. Mouth-wateringlayers of wild berries, cherries and fresh, juicy raspberries are accompanied with pomegranate, spice and florals.
SOUTHERN LIGHT VINEYARDS GHOSTGUM PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $85
A delicious example of well-managed whole bunch treatment. Elegant and refined with layers of fresh and vibrant sour red berries, Campari and caperberries. Aromas are lifted with earth, sour cherries and fine green peppercorns.
PORTSEA ESTATE BIRTHDAY HILL PINOT NOIR 2023
RRP $100
A brooding, dark-fruited wine carrying a complex and delicious mix of blackberries, stewed plums, cloves and earth. The palate is nicely balanced by the silky nature of the mouthfeel. Earth driven aromas with purple and red fruits.
FOXEYS HANGOUT KENTUCKY ROAD PINOT NOIR 2023
RRP $80
A nicely structured wine that will evolve elegantly. Aromas of 5-spice, cherries, plums, fennel and charcuterie flow through to a finely textured palate full of chewy red fruits, resolving in a wonderfully textured finish.
PARINGA ESTATE THE PARINGA PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $110
Loaded with spice-laden red and black fruits, this wine's weight and complexity is nicely balanced via its structure and tanninbalance. Its clove, dried herb, raspberry, strawberry and sweet fig aromas have a mouth-watering appeal.
HONOURABLE MENTION - SHERDALE SINGLE VINEYARD PINOT NOIR 2022
RRP $75
Garnet in the glass with a brick hue. Bouquet of cranberry fruit and charcuterie meat with a touch of tomato leaf. Raspberry andred plum coat the tongue and soft tannins make for a pleasantly plush, fruit-driven Pinot Noir.
To see the full list of the best in Mornington Pinot Noir, pick up the Sep/Oct 2024 issue from selected newsagents, subscribe, or access our digital edition via PressReader and Magzter.